Pricing improves in tiers as your score rises, and the strongest tier usually starts around 760 and up. Conventional loans generally begin near a 620 score, and FHA loans can go lower if you bring more money down. The higher your score, the lower the rate and often the smaller the down payment a lender will accept.

Barely, if you do it in a tight window. Credit scoring models treat multiple mortgage inquiries within a short shopping period, often around 14 to 45 days depending on the model, as a single event. So comparing three or more lenders in the same couple of weeks is smart, and it protects your score far more than it dings it.

It comes down to how long you keep the loan. Discount points are money paid up front to buy the rate down, so figure the break-even, the point where the monthly savings add up to what you paid. If you will stay past that break-even, points can pay off. If you might sell or refinance sooner, a no-points option usually wins.

Often, yes. More down means a lower loan-to-value ratio, which lenders read as less risk, and at 20 percent down you also drop private mortgage insurance. That said, do not drain every dollar. Keeping some cash in reserve is its own kind of strength in a lender’s eyes.

Usually not. Headline rates assume a strong profile, a specific loan type, and sometimes paid points. Your real number depends on your own credit, down payment, debt-to-income, and the property. Always compare the APR, which folds in fees, and get a written quote before you count on any advertised figure.

A rate lock holds your quoted rate for a set period while your loan is processed, commonly 30 to 60 days. If your closing runs long you may be able to extend it, sometimes for a fee. Locking protects you from a market move raising your rate before you close.